FRÅN JAPANS GATOR TILL MODEINDUSTRINS TOPP. Mediernas Gestaltning av Subkulturen Gyaru

Sammanfattning

This study explores how media outlets report on the subcultural style of gyaru in Tokyo, Japan. By using a qualitative method and an ethnographic content analysis this study analyses how eight different news articles depict the subculture gyaru in relation to the commodity form and the ideological form (Hebdige, 1979) as well as the bubble-up- and trickle-down theories (Blumberg, 1974). The study examines the following questions: RQ1: How does the media define subcultural fashion in relation to its political background? This question examines the disarmament of subcultures through Hebdige’s (1979) the ideological form which describes the media's role in shaping discourse and public opinion. RQ2: How does the media describe subcultural fashion in relation to commodification? This question aims to investigate Hebdige’s (1979) commodity form which describes the disarmament of subcultures through commodification, mainstreaming, and mass production of subcultural symbols. RQ3: Has the subcultural fashion gone up or down the class system and how does the media depict the fashion in relation to it? This question widens the understanding of the bubble-up and trickle-down-theories and whether these are applicable in Japanese fashion culture. The results reveal that the media rarely discuss the political background of Japanese subcultures, and by doing this are diminishing the seriousness of subcultural symbols. The media also create narratives that depict gyaru as silly, economically irresponsible, childish, and harmless. This also acts as a way to disarm the subculture. Furthermore the study reveals that the subculture is described in terms of consumption. Meaning articles more often than not describe the subculture in relation to the cost of keeping up with trends, as well as a cultural export for Japan’s economy. However the subculture is also described as a trend and something desirable. A description that is mainstreaming the style and diffusing the subculture. Finally, the study finds that there is little to no mention of socioeconomic class in any of the articles. However, there are some mentions of celebrities and even European royalty, which strengthens the trickle-down theory some but not enough to come to a concrete conclusion.