Vem är den unga konsumenten? : En multimodal kritisk diskursanalys om hur skönhetsprodukter konstruerar diskurser om ungdomlighet genom förpackningsdesign.

Sammanfattning

This study examines how beautyproduct packaging functions as a visual and communicative tool for constructing, reproducing or challenging the idea of youthfulness, beauty standards or identity. With the method of a qualitative multimodal critical discourse analysis, we examined ten different packages from three different cosmetic brands which are IsaDora, Nyx Professional Makeup and essence. The products were selected through a purpose sampling in order to bring light to the visual strategies used to target young consumers. Our study is mainly about critically analyzing how youthfulness is communicated, and which discourses emerge about them. The analysis is based on multiple visual categories such as color, shape, typography, material, function and icons, in order to examine how these elements interact to create messages and discourses surrounding the young consumer. The multimodal approach is primarily motivated by Ledin and Machin’s (2018) research about visual communications. The study is guided by a critical perspective, aiming to problematize how the beauty industry targets young people, especially girls in the ages 13-18 years old, in relation to contemporary beauty pressure and beauty ideals. The results are discussed in relation to broader societal consequences. Through theories and research about impact of packaging design, social semiotics and consumer culture, the study has enabled an analysis from nuanced perspectives. One tendency that’s been identified in contemporary beauty packaging is the use of strong colors and playful shapes, while minimalist expressions also appear due to the influence of popular culture. This results into three central discourses: youthfulness as playful and childish, trendy and minimalist, and innocence combined with sexualization. The findings are based on visual expressions where some products use bright colors and creative shapes with Disney references, while others adopt a minimalist design connected to the trendy “clean girl” aesthetic. Some products also combine playful and childish elements with promises of an improved appearance. This study contributes to an increased understanding of beauty packaging in relation to discourses. One interpretation is that these packages reproduce existing beauty norms and discourses, demonstrating the power of packaging in terms of consumption, as well as in the creation of perceptions about the youth.